5 Ways to Live

Like a Local Abroad 

Thanks to the recommendation of a friend who lives in Florence, we chose to rent a 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom apartment with a private terrace in the Oltrarno neighborhood of Florence, which is across the river from the Duomo, where many locals live. We also opted not to get a car and instead bought two bicycles. We would bike or walk wherever we could and for trips outside the city, we’d either take the train or rent a car. This was a great decision: We quickly learned that when you see a place by foot or bike you really find special spots that you might have otherwise missed. We knew we wanted to truly integrate ourselves into Italian life, and this neighborhood definitely helped us do just that—we created a routine for ourselves, cooked meals, and visited the local shops and markets, all of which made it feel like home.

Speaking of immersion, we, of course, visited the many amazing museums and sites. But we also made it a point to find spots we loved—and then return again and again. By going to our favorite restaurants on a regular basis, it allowed us to get to know the owners, so each time we went we were greeted by name. This gave us a sense of comfort and that we were part of the fabric of the community. It was the same with the tennis club. Or how we would spend evenings or weekend afternoons in the square in our neighborhood, Piazza Santo Spirito, where locals would gather for an Aperol Spritz. (Plus, right in the middle of the piazza is the last basilica designed by Brunelleschi and inside, a crucifix carved by Michelangelo when he was 18.) These relationships and experiences were so important to our overall experience—so much so that when it was time to leave Italy, we went and said our farewells to all of our favorite restaurant owners, too.

When we first arrived in Florence, Mike and I made a pact that we’d only travel within Italy, and other than a quick business trip to Paris, we stuck to that plan. And I’m so glad we did because while it can be tempting to visit so much while in Europe—it all feels so close, after all—this gave us the chance to see all corners of the country on a deeper level. We spent weekends in the Tuscan winelands, doing Brunello tastings, riding e-bikes through the hillsides, and exploring the Tuscan coast. We went to Lake Como, where we visited Passalacqua Hotel, a magical property right on the lake, and stayed at a favorite, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. We also spent a week in Puglia, biking through the olive groves, visiting local cheese and olive oil farms, and taking in all of the amazing Baroque architecture of Lecce. We had the chance to stay at Palazzo Maresgallo, which is like a living museum right in the heart of Lecce. In Sicily, we visited many incredible places, hiking and wine tasting in and around Mt. Etna, discovering the beauty of Noto, and then ending our trip at the new fabulous Rocco Forte property, Villa Igiea in Palermo. We also visited Milan a number of times while we were away. It is just a short train ride from Florence and we felt it has gone through such a transformation. It is so chic with amazing food and has some amazing new hotels, like the Park Hyatt Milan. There was so much to see and do in Italy itself, that it felt well worth it to “staycation” as a local would and take in everything the beautiful country has to offer.